Mark on this one: rounded and bold, and decanter-friendly — punching well above its price bracket. Integrated apple and pear with citrus tones, crème brûlée and manuka honey. Not your grandmother's Chardonnay: one for white burgundy lovers.

Saltwater River, on the Tasman Peninsula, grown by Ian and Anne Hoyle. The same vineyard as our Pinot Noir and our Gamay — one piece of ground, read three different ways.

Chardonnay has never been a fixture in the range. There was a three-year gap before the 2024, which is the honest position: it appears when the site gives us a reason, not because a slot needs filling.

The site sits just north-west of Port Arthur, further from everything than the Tamar or the Coal River and considerably more exposed. That it grows Chardonnay this well is a fact about the ground rather than a marketing position.

Fresh oysters, crayfish and abalone are abundant in the cold water around the peninsula, and they marry perfectly with a rich but crisp Chardonnay.